The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. The Mega Jul Sport supports rope from 7.9 to 11mm while the Mega Jul supports 7.9 to 10.5mm and the Micro Jul supports the Flycatcher rope of 6.9mm. That said, we like it as an option in case we don't have a prussik for backup. Its increased durability also adds to the value. TECHNISCHE INFORMATIONEN. was using with bd screw gate pear beaner functions as it should . Reproduction without permission is prohibited. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in … In this mode, it works much like the other tube-style auto-block devices, and while it is very effective at locking off the seconders rope, there is a fair amount of friction built into the system. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g Micro, Mega and Giga Jul; The slide mechanism is the innovative piece of the Giga Jul and is the sole reason why this will replace all your other devices and why those of you who did not love the Mega Jul at first use will consider coming back to the Jul Family. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). purchased a bulletproof beaner to have a the benefit of a slower wearing beaner however the assisted breaking mode no longer properly assists . Through this program, he learned ice climbing, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and alpine climbing skills. The Giga Jul is a thousand times easier to feed slack through in guide’s mode and is only slightly more difficult than an ATC-Guide to attach to an anchor, having to pay attention to the sliding plate in the middle. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. Tera (1 trillion) comes from the Greek word teras or teratos, meaning \"marvel, monster,\" and has been in use since approximately 1947. Weight: 65 g Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. Another chapter in our Steel Story. $49.95 . Rappelling in assisted braking mode, as we are here, is not our favorite because holding the thumb loop upward in the right place is tiring and hard to stay in the sweet spot without jerking. SLATE . It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight. — Assisted breaking on rappel in Locked Mode. Personally, I believe the best comparison to make for the Giga Jul is with the Mega Jul, which I view as its closest competitor. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is our favorite device for multi-pitching because it has three different modes cleverly built into one small, affordable, and simple device. The last is a great match for gym/sport/crags. The stainless steel core means it will last for years without wear and it’ll reduce heat build-up on long belay sessions. Edelrid Mega Jul Belaykit. Anytime two ropes are running over each other, as they are in this setup, there is going to be a lot of friction, adding fatigue to your shoulders and elbows as the day goes on. Order-No. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Giga Jul. 2 years ago. The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. However, we did notice that when you pull some slack back in through the device, you take your thumb out of the loop to do so, and then must look down, away from your climber, to find the thumb loop once again. PRODUKTINFOS. We most often lowered climbers in assist mode, because that is how we usually belayed them. Unlike the Reverso or ATC Guide, the Mega Jul requires the … We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. The Giga Jul is much better for this in fact it is as good … Finally, the slider bar can be flipped to the opposite side and the device can be used in brake assist mode, for an easier and more secure catch and hold when belaying either a leader or top-roper. Kombinuje v sobě standardní funkci kyblíku a … Using the assisted-braking rappel also gives me extra comfort while descending Eldo’s choss corners; while … $49.95 . Everyone we know belays the second on multi-pitches using auto-block, so we can't imagine a functional multi-pitch device that doesn't allow this usage. The thumb is slotted into the loop as shown here, and this hand also holds the brake rope. Switching between different belay modes, such as assisted braking or "manual," is performed simply by moving a central slider bar within the device to one side or the other, and then loading the rope correctly for that orientation. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, An incredibly versatile device that allows for every style of belay you would need on a multi-pitch climb. Metric prefixes are sometimes used with imperial and US customary units such as microinch and … But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on How to Start Ice Climbing. Rappelling in assist mode is similarly effortful and jerky, and we preferred not to do it. The Giga Jul addressed these problems by being a bit bigger and allowing more space for ropes to run with slightly less friction and is, therefore, easier to use. Sometimes called prefix multipliers, these prefixes are also used in electronics and physics.Each multiplier consists of a one-letter abbreviation and the prefix it stands for. A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. Rappelling laps with the Giga Jul to test all of the different ways and modes of rappelling to decide which works the best. It is best to spend some time familiarizing yourself with which direction is assisted braking and which is non-assisted braking. It also eliminates much of the non-intuitive setup found in the Mega Jul; as long as you pay careful attention to the pictorial diagrams on the side of the device and be sure to load it correctly, the Giga Jul is easy and intuitive to use. +$0.02 Mega Jul is kinda the least useful device out of Micro, Mega and Jul 2. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner The catch and bit provided by the Giga Jul in assisted braking mode is very effective at stopping the rope firmly in place, and holding it there as the climber rests. Simply put though, if both the thumb-catch on the device and the sliding plate are closer to you, then it is in tubular braking mode. It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight.Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. INSPECTION INSTRUCTION / SUMMARIES. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. VIDEO. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Like the Mega Jul, feeding a sling through the release hole to lower a climber in guide’s mode is difficult, but that is a slight price to pay for not being disgruntled whenever belaying your follower. Got feedback? the Jul 2 is the most comfortable of the 3 products for belaying, full stop. While belaying and rappelling are definitely improved with the Giga Jul, the best change is with belaying in guide’s mode. The ultimate "bite" depends on the rope and carabiner you pair the Giga Jul with. Edelrid - Giga Jul. What you're looking for is at the end, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use for leverage. Especially with the small size of the Mega Jul, loading the ropes into the device was a struggle. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. Add to Cart. The Jul sport will take a thicker rope (11mm vs 10.5) a bit better than the original Mega Jul, but the same as the Jul 2. SLATE . Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. The joule … I did use the Mega Jul and found it awkward for abseiling, particularly if you thread it the brake assist way. He is currently is living in a small village in the Kalikot District of Nepal, where he is working in the development sector. The device has two rope slots, making it usable with twin or double ropes, and ensuring that you can rappel double ropes. Although you must still hold onto the brake strand, the braking assist does most of the work, effectively locking the device when the climber falls, and easily holding their weight as they rest, requiring minimal sustained gripping or effort on the belayer's part. assisted breaking almost fully locks up . One must loop their thumb through a special thumb loop, and then hold this loop up and out, away from the carabiner, to prevent the device from locking and keep the rope feeding smoothly. Features. Das Giga Jul ist Tuber und Autotuber in einem. 717840006630. This is an instructional video of the Mega Jul and Micro Jul. The Giga Jul has made many great improvements to these functions. To get a belay device that does it all in an efficient and small package makes the Giga Jul thoroughly worth considering. In brake assist mode, feeding slack requires learning a different technique. The function for the Mega Jul Sport is the same as the Mega Jul. Die besonders hohe Bremswirkung … The Giga Jul, being much larger in size, is easy to load. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. Pitching out, I build the standard guide-mode plaquette top belay, and when my second reaches the station, she anchors in while I move the slider and flip the Giga Jul into assisted-braking lead mode. not sure if the steel is preventing the … The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted-braking tuber in one. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. — Weight: 65 grams. The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. It took much longer than normal rappelling would. This typically means that lowering and … In manual mode, the device functions just like a standard tube and has some added friction grooves that help you catch and hold a falling climber. VIDEO. Especially with fatter ropes on a free-hanging, 35-meter rappel, disengaging the brake assist is a struggle. For the advanced climber: get stoked for a … 717840006630. Shown here is the slider bar, in yellow, that you move from one side of the device to the other in order to change modes. od 1 270 Kč (5 e-shopů) Petzl Grigri. PRÜFANLEITUNG / NORMEN. Skip to the end of the images gallery. We like how the device is ambidextrous, so lefties can use it just as easily as righties. Only when a climber has mastered belaying are they ready to test out the features of the Edelrid Micro/Mega Jul. MSRP: $75 When I show up to … ›› Definition: Kilojoule. M (manual) at the top, A (assist) at the bottom, as indicated by the arrows. The Mega Jul Sport takes double ropes, making it more … Like other plaquette devices, this is done by clipping the ear to the anchor and loading the rope correctly. Výrobce. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. WEIGHT: 100g: CERTIFICATION: EN 15151-1: Show more . It is designed to be used with ropes in the range of 7.1mm-10mm and using fatter, thicker ropes can become problematic in assisted braking mode, as the angles are no longer correct to provide the assist, allowing for some rope slippage. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Please note our climbing return policy. The Jul 2 is slated as a single tubular belay device. Also worth noting, will steel construction where the rope wears this device will last you far longer than aluminum counterparts (especially if you are in sandy climbing terrain). There isn’t a device that is proficient at all styles of belaying on the market yet, and no one wants to spend lots of money on multiple belay devices. What you're looking for is at the end, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use for leverage. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Thus, the Mega Jul was born, identical in functionality to the Micro Jul, differing only in what rope diameters it is designed to handle [Micro Jul: 6.9mm-8.5mm Mega Jul: 7.8mm-10.5mm]. Additionally, set up always lead to confusion wondering how the device is supposed to be attached to an anchor. GearLab is reader-supported. A mega versatile and solid belay kit that's great for guiding. Backordered - Est. IN DEN WARENKORB LEGEN . The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. The unit is pronounced to rhyme with "tool", and is named in honor of the physicist James Prescott Joule (1818-1889). 2 years ago. Be sure to read the instructions so you understand how to properly load the device. Quantity. The prefix kilo (1,000) first came into existence between 1865 and 1870. MANUAL. In manual mode one must firmly lock off the brake line in a downward direction, and this takes a bit more effort. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Add to Cart. The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. It doesn’t feed slack well, it doesn’t lower well, rappelling with it in both brake-assisted and non-brake assisted modes is confusing, as is setting it up for and belaying in guide’s mode. At a quick glance, it looks similar to a large version of Edelrid’s Mega Jul. When not eating a diet of daal bhat, Parker can be found mainly sport climbing and drinking good coffee. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of Edelrid’s Ohm Assisted Braking ResistorÂ, A Look at Black Diamond’s ATC Pilot Belay Device, Gear You Ought to Know: Grivel’s Twin Gate Carabiners, Climber Spotlight: Sabrina Chapman on Titan (5.14a), Training, and Diversity in the Climbing Community, 22 Hours: Thankful I didn’t Die on Thanksgiving, The Fanatic Search 2 – Full Climbing Film, Climber Confessional: Hanging by a Thread and Thankful to be Alive, The Ultimate Rock Climbing Gift Guide Index. The unit is pronounced to rhyme with "tool", and is named in honor of the physicist James Prescott Joule (1818-1889). Being able to rappel double strands in either manual mode with a backup, or in assist mode, as we are testing here, is one of the many versatile ways to use this device. od 1 789 Kč (30 e-shopů) Další jistící zařízení EDELRID . Feeding slack in manual mode with the Giga Jul is exactly like with any other tube-style device and uses the same techniques. … Für situationsabhängiges Sichern und Abseilen vor allem im alpinen Gelände. Beal Birdie Belay Device. In addition to the brake-assist ("thumb mode") using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or "guide mode" for belaying climbers from above. re: Mega Drain vs. Giga Drain It would have been nice though if they raised mega drain to somewhere between 50 and 60 damage, for improved technician shenanigans with Roserade. Kilo, mega, giga, tera, peta, exa, zetta are among the list of binary prefixes used to denote the quantity of something, such as a byte or bit in computing and telecommunications. Quantity. PRODUKTINFOS. BUY IN STORE . ADD TO CART . The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. In brake-assisted belay mode, giving slack is much more efficient and fluid. Gewicht: 65 g Unser vielseitigstes Sicherungs- und Abseilgerät aus Edelstahl-Feinguss für eine lange Lebensdauer. Super Versatile belay device. For rappelling, we preferred using manual mode with a prussik backup, as this is far and away the smoothest way to rappel, and feels just like any other tube-style device. Features. 7.8-10.5mm — Assisted breaking for lead belays and belaying seconds from above. It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. Overall, however, the entire belaying process feels smoother with the Giga Jul, perhaps because of the larger size. The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. We liked using the second carabiner best because it mimics the lowering handle found on most active assist devices. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g It’s safe to say that this device is not a beginner belay device. Once the rope is loaded, you cannot switch between types of belay style, which is to be expected. My Final Opinion of Mega Jul Sport. Edelrid Giga Jul - Specifikace. Working with the Giga Jul in guide plate mode was excellent, the rope pulled through like a dream and locked solid when the second weighted the rope. All trademarks property of their respective owners The Giga Jul can also be used in assisted braking mode to belay off an anchor. The Giga Jul weighs 4.3 ounces, which isn't too heavy but is almost double the weight of some other auto-block belay devices designed for multi-pitching. The multi-functional aspect of the device is very attractive let alone the … This assisted braking style works in similar ways to a variety of devices on the market: the Black Diamond Pilot, the Climbing Technology Click Up, Mammut’s Smart series, and others in the Edelrid family. It’s most similar to the Edelrid Mega Jul ($34.95) and the Mammut Smart ($29.95), but adds the benefit of a much softer catch. We found that round stock pear biners (HMS) work best, as they provide the least friction so you can easily pay out slack. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. You get to choose whether you want the assisted braking mode on (as in the Mega Jul) or turn it off and have a regular tube device. SLATE. IN DEN WARENKORB LEGEN . For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. I highly suggest solely rappelling with a backup instead, as it is much easier to tend to as you descend. Super Versatile belay device. To achieve both styles of catching falls, the Giga Jul has a sliding plate in the middle of the device. We only recommend using a round stock carabiner with this device. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Three belay modes in on device, affordable, stainless steel inserts for greater longevity, Slightly heavier than competitors, assisted braking mode requires learning a new belay technique. Thus, the Mega Jul was born, identical in functionality to the Micro Jul, differing only in what rope diameters it is designed to handle [Micro Jul: 6.9mm-8.5mm Mega Jul: 7.8mm-10.5mm]. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). The value of this device is due largely to the fact that you can use it in three different modes. I feel like most people don't know the right techniques for this device. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. ›› Definition: Joule. MEGA JUL. The Mega Jul Sport takes double ropes, … Though mega is used these days to mean \"extremely good, great or successful,\" its scientific meaning is 1 million. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. At a Glance - Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner - Suitable for 7.9 - 10.5 mm ropes - Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable … Compared to assisted braking modes and devices, this way of belaying requires the most effort and sustained gripping of the brake strand. I have a neat trick with guide plates that works really well with a flat sided HMS like the Edelrid Strike – if I need to lower a second a shot distance (to deal with a fiddly wire for instance) you can get the back bar of the screw gate against the back of … The keeper cable is aided by a thumb hook that juts out from the brake side of the device. Giga comes from the Greek word for giant, and the first use of the term is believed to have taken place at the 1947 conference of the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry. device basically works as an atc when it is in break assist mode . The Mega Jul is a device full of flaws, in my opinion. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a new and improved version of the older Mega Jul, and we think it is worthy of our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing because it combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-block all in one single device. For example, the prefix mega- may be added to ton to indicate multiplication by one million; one megaton is equal to one million tons (1 Mt = 1,000,000 t). The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. I did find, as with the Mega Jul, that belay gloves help significantly with lowering climbers, especially since the rope is practically rubbing over your thumb as you lower. ... Edelrid Giga Jul Review - Duration: 31:17. Edelrid. Tech specs. Many gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking devices, but many people still prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling … It was not fun and had me dreading every belay anchor I approached. Setting up the device properly is also easier, as you simply set it up as you would to belay in non-brake assisted belay mode. hood135 The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. BEIM HÄNDLER KAUFEN. One demerit to Edelrid for nearly doubling the weight from the Mega Jul (120g vs 65g, respectively). The lighter auto-block devices don't have that and are sure to wear out a bit quicker, so the added weight comes with the benefit of increased durability. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated … Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted-braking tuber in one. (I ended up making them all buy ATCs due to the frustration of self-rescue with a Mega Jul, since the Giga Jul was not on the market yet.). The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. In terms of bulk, it is a little bit larger than other auto-block devices, but certainly not by much. It doesn’t feed slack well, it doesn’t lower well, rappelling with it in both brake-assisted and non-brake assisted modes is confusing, as is setting it up for and belaying in guide’s mode. Using a, I-beam carabiner like the one shown here added significant friction to the system, making it much harder to pull out the needed slack quickly. At first the Mega Jul appears to be another plaquette-style belay device with two slots for double-rope rappels, an external "ear" for auto-block mode, an unlocking eye and a keeper cable. However, the brilliance of the Giga Jul is having a device that can be configured to use tubular braking—using the friction of the device, like an ATC, to catch a fall—or using assisted braking to catch your climber. However, for the same weight, you get two different styles of belay devices and the Gigajul is much cheaper than a GriGri. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. EDELRID – MICRO JUL & MEGA JUL (EN) from EDELRID on Vimeo. This video shows all of the proper techniques for Mega Jul use. Catching falls is not compromised in spite of being more efficient, and lowering is easier as well. A mega versatile and solid belay kit that's great for guiding. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. It’s tied for the least-expensive brake-assist device on the market at $29.95. Shown here in manual mode, it works just like a standard tube style device. The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. TECHNICAL INFORMATION. The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. 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